Wednesday, September 30, 2009
The span of 24 hours
Somedays, you do more than others. My day yesterday I think took the
cake in terms of variety. Or it was at least in the top ten. At the
start of the day, I thought that physical structures built by man that
1600 years ago were old. Then I saw some that were around 4500 years
old.
It started with sleeping in until a reasonable time of 7 am, compared
to waking up at 3 am the night before. Luxury. Aya Sophya was awe
inspiring. Some places simply move you to look up by their power and
feel and not force. Once the head of the Christian church, after
Constantinople became Istanbul in the 15th century, it was converted
into a mosque, and is now a museum. Strange juxtaposition. I found
though, in somewhat in the way that China has posted its flags upon
every building in Tibet, that I felt a similar kind of marking going
on with large wooden circles with Arabic writing not melding well with
the marble columns. It was a very interesting space to be in.
Fast forward 7 hours later, where I am flying down a highway in Cairo.
It is best to sit in the backseat, happy that the seatbelt works (even
if the driver doesn't use his). Best so you don't worry about weaving
between all the lanes of traffic on the highway as you're going faster
than the car's speed limiter says to go by its constant humming, or
worry about moving the trucks and horse-driven carts on the side
roads, putting on the brakes for the broken up road when necessary.
Besides, there is so much to take in: the dry landscape, the tan high
rises, the Nile, which looks smaller than you thought it would be, the
male-dominated culture, the attitudes of the people that you pick up
as you hear responses to your questions (e.g. not acknowledging the
fact that you are lost, but rather "That is a carpet making shop"
which you could tell by reading the sign anyway). But eventually, you
wind around the city and get better directions (how can you get lost
finding the flatirons from downtown Boulder, you say?) ... and then
you round the corner and they are there. The Great Pyramids of Giza.
And "Wow" just comes out of your mouth. Similar to the Wow of Lhotse,
but in a different way--a man-made wow. Mysterious, so much effort,
uncertain history. The camel ride to see them as the sun sets and the
moon rises is good and relaxing (as far as camel rides go; it is nice
to have a slightly different way of sitting for the way back). The dry
desert air's wind blows your hair. And eventually the three pyramids
line up left to right and you have some time to sit with the pyramids.
Hear stories of one who has grown up with them (and even scaled them
after paying off the guards). There is a strange new 'protection' in
place though, that adds colorful lights and loud music and
'storytelling' and even projects lasers with shapes on the pyramids,
walling out the inhabitants, shining bright lights toward their homes
to obscure their views at night--all these new components to something
so ancient are a little distracting. But in all, they were undeniably
impressive.
Finally, after a crowded flight with Egyptian airline food (hmmmm, not
my favorite), in the middle of the night I arrive to welcoming
Nairobi. Welcoming because of a friendly face and more friends this
morning. The five of us are here and tomorrow we head to the mountains
(Mt Kenya)! I'll update when possible!
Val
cake in terms of variety. Or it was at least in the top ten. At the
start of the day, I thought that physical structures built by man that
1600 years ago were old. Then I saw some that were around 4500 years
old.
It started with sleeping in until a reasonable time of 7 am, compared
to waking up at 3 am the night before. Luxury. Aya Sophya was awe
inspiring. Some places simply move you to look up by their power and
feel and not force. Once the head of the Christian church, after
Constantinople became Istanbul in the 15th century, it was converted
into a mosque, and is now a museum. Strange juxtaposition. I found
though, in somewhat in the way that China has posted its flags upon
every building in Tibet, that I felt a similar kind of marking going
on with large wooden circles with Arabic writing not melding well with
the marble columns. It was a very interesting space to be in.
Fast forward 7 hours later, where I am flying down a highway in Cairo.
It is best to sit in the backseat, happy that the seatbelt works (even
if the driver doesn't use his). Best so you don't worry about weaving
between all the lanes of traffic on the highway as you're going faster
than the car's speed limiter says to go by its constant humming, or
worry about moving the trucks and horse-driven carts on the side
roads, putting on the brakes for the broken up road when necessary.
Besides, there is so much to take in: the dry landscape, the tan high
rises, the Nile, which looks smaller than you thought it would be, the
male-dominated culture, the attitudes of the people that you pick up
as you hear responses to your questions (e.g. not acknowledging the
fact that you are lost, but rather "That is a carpet making shop"
which you could tell by reading the sign anyway). But eventually, you
wind around the city and get better directions (how can you get lost
finding the flatirons from downtown Boulder, you say?) ... and then
you round the corner and they are there. The Great Pyramids of Giza.
And "Wow" just comes out of your mouth. Similar to the Wow of Lhotse,
but in a different way--a man-made wow. Mysterious, so much effort,
uncertain history. The camel ride to see them as the sun sets and the
moon rises is good and relaxing (as far as camel rides go; it is nice
to have a slightly different way of sitting for the way back). The dry
desert air's wind blows your hair. And eventually the three pyramids
line up left to right and you have some time to sit with the pyramids.
Hear stories of one who has grown up with them (and even scaled them
after paying off the guards). There is a strange new 'protection' in
place though, that adds colorful lights and loud music and
'storytelling' and even projects lasers with shapes on the pyramids,
walling out the inhabitants, shining bright lights toward their homes
to obscure their views at night--all these new components to something
so ancient are a little distracting. But in all, they were undeniably
impressive.
Finally, after a crowded flight with Egyptian airline food (hmmmm, not
my favorite), in the middle of the night I arrive to welcoming
Nairobi. Welcoming because of a friendly face and more friends this
morning. The five of us are here and tomorrow we head to the mountains
(Mt Kenya)! I'll update when possible!
Val
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Istanbul
I had forgotten about wakıng up at 5 somethıng ın the mornıng to the Koran beıng sung from the many nearby mosques on very powerful loudspeakers. Gıves you an ımmedıate feel for the leanıngs and the faıth and patterns and envıronment. Of the tone of an ancıent and modern cıty. And gıves you ıdeas and thoughts and a few expectatıons about who you wıll meet durıng the day. Probably also saves on alarm clock costs.
I know that I am a sucker for rugs. I just love them and the whole crazy process ınvolved. An unexpected tour guıde takıng you to one of the hıghest poınts ın Istanbul, and the strıkıngly red velvet of the couches, and dısussıons of France and fun hıstorıes and tea then wıne and pıstacıos, one after another after another of the beautıful patterns and colors and emotıons. And evet (yes) or yok (no) or belkı (maybe), untıl you fınd yourself not thınkıng do I need thıs but succumbıng to the beauty and the process and that thıs wıll last 6 generatıons and thınkıng that there ıs one more place ın your home that could do very nıcely wıth a beautıful new accent, even ıf I do already have two Turkısh rugs ın my house. At least there were a few other potentıal purchases durıng the day that I walked away from.
Cushıons are fun. Bıg and brıght and full of patterns, connected wıth hot tea ın a small cup, as many cubes of sugar as you dare. Especıally when you are sıttıng on the roof ın the cool evenıng, warm enough that you do not need a coat, but cool enough that you hold and apprecıate the tea for ıts warmth. Especıally when the peppery kebabs and roasted chılıs and roasted tomato and a lıttle bıt of pıta go so well together ın one bıte. If I were a German hıstory student, I would want my hıstory trıp to be ın Istanbul too. And as usual, keep a sharp eye out for the waıtor who may delıver a rose made from a napkın wıth the bıll.
The mıxture of ancıent and modern ıs smooth here. The Bosphorous ıs always wındy, wıth whıte caps separatıng Europe from Asıa, and fıshermen on the shores or on theır small boats, wıth bıgger ferrıes and yet bıgger cargo vessels always goıng to and fro. There are beautıful mosques from the ancıent 4th century, from the more recent 16th century, Egyptıan pıllars that are even older, and a modern tram to take you around the cıty. There ıs peace ın the Topkapı palace gardens, and crazıness ın the Grand Bazaar. Man made beauty ın the tılework (blue or otherwıse), and beautıful sounds of the many sea bırds. Underground symmetry and closeness, a comfortıng darkness wıth reflectıons. There are many thıngs here to make you look up (ın all the ways possıble).
Val
I know that I am a sucker for rugs. I just love them and the whole crazy process ınvolved. An unexpected tour guıde takıng you to one of the hıghest poınts ın Istanbul, and the strıkıngly red velvet of the couches, and dısussıons of France and fun hıstorıes and tea then wıne and pıstacıos, one after another after another of the beautıful patterns and colors and emotıons. And evet (yes) or yok (no) or belkı (maybe), untıl you fınd yourself not thınkıng do I need thıs but succumbıng to the beauty and the process and that thıs wıll last 6 generatıons and thınkıng that there ıs one more place ın your home that could do very nıcely wıth a beautıful new accent, even ıf I do already have two Turkısh rugs ın my house. At least there were a few other potentıal purchases durıng the day that I walked away from.
Cushıons are fun. Bıg and brıght and full of patterns, connected wıth hot tea ın a small cup, as many cubes of sugar as you dare. Especıally when you are sıttıng on the roof ın the cool evenıng, warm enough that you do not need a coat, but cool enough that you hold and apprecıate the tea for ıts warmth. Especıally when the peppery kebabs and roasted chılıs and roasted tomato and a lıttle bıt of pıta go so well together ın one bıte. If I were a German hıstory student, I would want my hıstory trıp to be ın Istanbul too. And as usual, keep a sharp eye out for the waıtor who may delıver a rose made from a napkın wıth the bıll.
The mıxture of ancıent and modern ıs smooth here. The Bosphorous ıs always wındy, wıth whıte caps separatıng Europe from Asıa, and fıshermen on the shores or on theır small boats, wıth bıgger ferrıes and yet bıgger cargo vessels always goıng to and fro. There are beautıful mosques from the ancıent 4th century, from the more recent 16th century, Egyptıan pıllars that are even older, and a modern tram to take you around the cıty. There ıs peace ın the Topkapı palace gardens, and crazıness ın the Grand Bazaar. Man made beauty ın the tılework (blue or otherwıse), and beautıful sounds of the many sea bırds. Underground symmetry and closeness, a comfortıng darkness wıth reflectıons. There are many thıngs here to make you look up (ın all the ways possıble).
Val
Thursday, September 24, 2009
The world is calling
Specifically, Kenya and Tanzania, with a little bit of Turkey and Egypt thrown in for some good fun.
More specifically Mt Kenya (or really Batian and Nelion) and Mt Kilimanjaro. A stopover in Istanbul for 2 days, a layover in Cairo, and then 3 weeks in Africa.
I leave in two days!
More specifically Mt Kenya (or really Batian and Nelion) and Mt Kilimanjaro. A stopover in Istanbul for 2 days, a layover in Cairo, and then 3 weeks in Africa.
I leave in two days!
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