A different span of a day

5:20pm, Day X: Speeding down the hill from Marangu, Tanzania, no seatbelt in sight, listening to Kenny Rogers in the bus (reminds me of my grandpa, "you got to know when to hold 'em"), getting slightly spit on by the rain coming in through the window, feeling soooo happy to be off of my feet (it was a long hike down 9,000 feet that day), and drying out (again).

5:20pm, Day X-1: Arriving at Gilman's Point, around 18,500 feet above sea level (or so). The steep part of the climb is over, and the first view of the dry, moon-like crater of Kilimanjaro appears. There is only a hint of a glacier across the crater, most of the 'snows of Kilimanjaro' having disappeared in the span of a few years. The sun is low, but still bright, and the ridge to the summit looks fun!


3pm, Day X: Hiking down. From Kibo past Horombo past Mandara, but not yet to the gate. From snow to rock to dirt (no longer dust). From the alpine desert through the moorland and into the forest. It is humid and smells so good (especially those little white flowers). The ferns and moss are thick on the trees. Unfortunately, . . . it just started raining. Again. Like Africa forgot that I already knew what it was like to be wet, hiking down from a big mountain. This time, of course, I was both more prepared and more willing (in a way). The big yellow plastic rain cover comes out (immediately) to cover me and my pack. The sleeves get rolled up past my elbows to avoid the drip when you're hiking with poles. And that part of my pants below mid-thigh? Easily accepted that it will be just plain wet and stick to your leg in that annoying way. My feet hurt from hiking down sooo much today (you know the feeling when you're almost getting blisters on the bottom of your feet?), but other than that, the rest of my body feels good. Sometimes, though, you really really want that last two miles to just disappear.

3pm, Day X-1: We're on the way to the summit. We being me and Alex, my local guide on Kili. The national park requires that you have a guide, and mine was great. Especially since he suggested changing up the typical approach toward when we climb, which is why we are here now. Most people climb up to Kibo hut (15,400 ft) on one day, then rest for a few hours, get up at 11pm, leave at midnight for the summit, and get a sunrise view from the top. Problems with this approach: 1) your sleep schedule is disrupted, 2) you are climbing when you are sleepy, 3) you have less energy in the middle of the night, 4) on your return, you only get to sleep a few hours before descending to a lower altitude, ... but the biggest problem is 5) everybody and their brother goes at this time. And the hidden problems that we actually didn't know about until the next morning: 6) a storm will roll in that night putting snow and ice on the route (not making it dangerous, just more of a pain), and 7) a huge lenticular cloud with its associated high winds will descend on the mountain, masking the views of the 'sunrise' anyway. Fortunately, instead of the traditional approach, Alex suggested that since we're fast (strong like lioness), that we rest for a few hours at Kibo, then continue on up to Uhuru (the summit) on the same day. Unfortunately (for some reason), Africa likes to hail on me at 16,600 feet. Just like on Batian climbing in the Amphitheater. So it is hailing on me. Let's put on the coat and pack cover and give it an hour (it'll stop, I know it will).


12pm, Day X: Hiking down, just below Horombo. You've left the snow and lenticulars behind, and have had a last lunch at the huts at Horombo (and even used Alex's cell phone to update the blog, but are tired of typing in 10-digits).

12pm, Day X-1: Almost ready to sleep for an hour. At Kibo hut (15.4k), there are 12 bunks in your room (and yes the 5 that are filled will all wake you up in 12 hours time when they are going for the summit). You've just eaten your lunch, and are changing and packing for the summit push. Packing while ensconced in your sleeping bag of course, because it is cold in here, and your fingers have a tiny tingle due to the cold and altitude.


9:15am, Day X: Hiking down, at the "last water point," around 14,000 feet or so. The snows used to reach down here, but now it is dry from here to above Gilman's point. There is a crew of three building a new toilet facility (upgraded from the pits), listening to music.

9:15am, Day X-1: Hiking up, at the "last water point." The morning started with a good breakfast of an omlette, tea, avocado, and toast. Say "Jambo" and dance a little with the construction crew.

...

6:20pm, Day X: Back in Moshi, at the Kilicrane hotel. Your feet are finally up, done hiking for the meantime. Time to relax.

6:20pm, Day X-1: At the roof of Africa: Uhuru point, 5895 meters, or 19,340 feet. The summit of Kilimanjaro. The sun is just about to set, and has its characteristic strong orange glow. A glacier is to the left. The last ridge from Gilman's point was fun: you alternated between "speed racer" when the ridge offered a down section, and "well, faster than a snail, but..." when the ridge went up. But in total you made good time from Kibo (4:15). An awesome part about the climb is that it was just you two--no one else on the mountain at all; a treat. Right now, though, it is getting colder, starting to snow (it'll keep it up the whole way down), and it is time to head down. Back home.